Trip and Surf Journal: Tue 4.30 (surf day 35 — Legian Day 4)

Simplify. Divest.  CUT DOWN.

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Nice Indo butcher knife and cutting board.

Wake up w/ a fresh round of the same sickness and junk the whole family has been fighting for a week now.  Tropical stuffiness! We are counting down the days to the next phase of Thailand/Cambodia and what not — and a big deal is to lighten our load.  I knew going in I wanted to go light.  We’ve had some close calls so far, getting help from a porter or something or me and a car . . . but we are about to be way more “backpacker” and HAVE to be able to carry all of our stuff on our collective backs for at least 1k /  hour . . . I’ve done the math enough to know, I know the pieces fit, TOOL. — so along w/ that we brought WAY more stuff than we need, some of that is because we are American goons, some of it because we didn’t know for sure what we would and would not need, etc.   But now we are paring down, going to store a bag in Indo, drop the surfboard too (a whole other calculus, more post on that later) — but anyway I seriously ditch half of my clothes and a bunch of other stuff into the storage bag, it feels good.  It is easy to know what I need and don’t now.  And I don’t need much.  Clothes, Fam, Money, Comm gear, that should do it :)  Let’s roll.  We get it down to this . . .

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More to figure out and dial in — Thailand and Cambodia and service projects, work ongoing.  We continue to get donations, and it blows my mind and warms my heart 10x every time.  So cool.

My old man body is buckling under the bags and surf and heat and diet — sometimes it is just not there.  But I know I am about to say goodbye to the ocean and surf and waves for 4-6 weeks (maybe some ocean, but no surf) — and anyway I drag my aching neck and shoulders and sick and half starved ass down to the ocean after early morning rain and dealing and what not — and surprise find the best session I’ve had in a week.  Including a great French dude and Indo dude — the three of us working the same peak — I am known as “California”.  Here is the first exchange:

French: Sunscreen on your head?

Me: Yeah, every time.

French: With wind, you don’t know, but at night, you know [as in — you are burned!]

Me: Oh yeah, I’ve been there.

French: Where you from?

Me: America

French: Not so many American here

Me: Yeah, kind of cool for me

French: Yeah, and ME!

Me: laugh ass off

Indo: You California

Me: Yeah, you? Kuta?

Indo: No, Balian

Me: Love Balian

Indo: You been Balian?! Yeah!

And on we go.  Just fun, a french, indo and amurican, just mixing it up, this is on Legian beach, hard by Kuta, the most insane idiocy you might find touron zone . . . and yet here I am walked 5 min from villa to beach dumped in ocean and me and these 2 cats w/ some good conditions all to ourselves.  This after fighting for waves on Lembongan!  So funny, again, ski analogies, like when you have an afternoon of perfect wind buff on headwall or kt 22 . . . or you go to jakes on a sunday in january and you and 3 cats have the whole thing to yourself  and it conditions are way better than you or anyone thought . . . my boy Bill said it: ALWAYS GO. Digression: Bill wanted to bug ski gloves.  He is cheap.  Cheaper than me.  I will pay for performance, a premium.  He is ilke what gloves.  I’m saying get leather and vortex and don’t look back.  This is 10 years ago at least btw.  Bill says but that costs $70.  I say yeah, so.  He says I just need some ski gloves, I think I can buy some for $10 or $20.  I say yeah but maybe your hands are frozen or soaked or both or wharvevs.  He says maybe, but maybe not.  He says I think you glove buying strategy is to “PAY MORE”.  I love this.  Strategy = Pay more.  This should be on a kooky indo t shirt.  Admit, you’ve executed on a strategy to PAY MORE.  If you are from a developed country.  You need to go 3rd world every now and then just to remind yourself what a fat spending pig you really are.  Laughing at myself so hard I love it!

Back from digression.  We need a car.  Hire or taxi or whatever.  We got sights to see and errands to roll on the last full day in Bali tomorrow.  I find the rental zone and work out a car for $15 and the dudes finally drop it off late tonight and we have another one of those “do I trust you / all fair?” kind of interactions . . . wish I could bottle this stuff w/ the kids. Hmmm.  Anyway, we have a meep meep to do stuff with tomorrow. And there will be a lot of stuff!

I cook again tonight.  I’ve figured out how to turn a $3 whole chicken into a pretty awesome meal!  Spices are cheap, the chickens are so fresh, they slow cook w/ the right amount of love in some broth w/ veggies in a standard pot/broth/lid, about 90 minutes.  Takes 6 hours to get this done at home in a slow cooker.  Tonight is a Rendang based sauce.  Black rice, fresh veggie.  Soon (thailand) we are on the street food / resto diet again, which is cool, just tough for day after day.  We all swell up w/ the salt from the resto food . . .  it is really funny.  Even the kids!  Sorry guys.

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