Test of Strength. Chasing the (wave) dragon. Goodbye tears.
Kind of a crazy transition day, we’ve been rolling w/ the Garner family the last 10 days and now saying goodbye. But they are on a redeye so we have another day to rock it.
We’ve all moved into “our room” at 10:30am cuz these guys have to check out all good. John and I get a late morning session in on the surf, clean and simple the GO we both love when solo surfing (a few bones in the shorts, and flip flops on the beach) . . . so clean, 5 min walk each way. More awesome skulling for both of us on what is next, living, professional, fam. And then, we paddle out and nothing else matters. The surf, the scene, the sort. John is Mr. Outside. I am Mr. Inside. He’s on a 7 foot mega fish and only wants big long quality waves and rides. I’m on a 6′ 2″ ‘fat’ shorty — happy to grab the inside program and really want more waves and frequency and little workable shoulders for a few turns are fine And my NZ flag on beach takeoff spot stll right it’s ok . . that peels for me, sometimes.
We are back by 1pm a couple hour super efficient session and we launch the lunch game and then hopeful for Revell nap in our kids’ room at 1pm cuz lord knows a red-eye awaits!!
So, test of strength on the bag we picked up yesterday and have stored for almost 3 months. Not surprising, but mold is running rampant through the clothes. The bag is dust, this is a duffle I bought w/ Will in NYC 15 years ago and it’s done. Garbage. So, the stuff in the bag . . . we didn’t/don’t need it on this trip (but for my freaking volcano Rinjani mission!!!) — really it is the stuff we overpacked and left behind when we went SE Asia. There is some nice stuff, But just stuff. So how will we roll. TBD. More to come. Our “comfy” place now is all of Garners baggage, exploded mold bag and clothes, 7 peeps, OK!
Megan and I end up peeling out for errands — including vinegar and big bin acquisition to try to treat moldy clothes — for me I am just stoked to go walk in this area w/ my WIFE, some 1:1 time, rad. We sort, through rainstorms whatever, it’s ok . . . ATM’s, markets, here we go. Megan has the bin and vinegar she wants to tackle a few super mold pieces and the net is crushes it. Vineager is not cheap like $5 for a medium jug so wow, TEST of STRENGTH. We skull it, a bag of moldy clothes. All material stuff, can we let it go . . . or can we, TEST of STRENGTH, right, actions louder than words. Can we let it go . . . Damn my favorite skull cap was in that bag!! Time will tell whether we are throwing all this stuff away. I’ve already let it go, whatever is salvaged is a bonus. We buy a huge duffel for $8 that we can quarantine the moldy stuff in and see what happens when we get home. In the meantime Megan proves she can save some stuff, amazing, good piece of mind I think.
The evening / sunset surf and fams session is rad. I am so tired that for the first 10 minutes it’s all good and a couple waves then just chasing dragon. Conditions dictating at low tide a tiny take off spot, and it the eve and the local ripper crew is out off work or whatever and I’m competing w/ better surfers straight up but at least the vibe doesn’t do south it’s all good, it’s beautiful. Right down to the final sunset w/ fams on the beach.
7pm the Garners are showered and ready to roll from our crib and the goodbyes are intense – for the KIDS! Aili has a tough time — well we all do but she is just real enough to rock the tears (which continue on for 24 hours!!). John, Sylvie, and Revell really have had a super big and positive impact on our kids, just amazing. I am not one of those guys who can ‘just connect’ with other little kids, but John is, and the whole departure for our kids is kind of rough. We are all tired, it’s ok. We are going home, in a few days, and it is back to just us.